Guide

How to train plants to have greater potential.

By 26. August 2019 No Comments

Low stress training

Whether your garden is large or small, outdoors or indoors, training can greatly improve the quality and yield of your cannabis. The techniques are divided into two categories: LST (Low Stress Training), which does not directly involve plant damage and HST (High Stress Training), which involves breaking or taking part of the plant.

The goal of these training methods is to change the chemical balance in the plant. If it grows naturally, cannabis will create one main stick that will reach as high as possible, which is not optimal in terms of yield and quality. Flowers that grow under the main bud on the plant receive less light. By “teaching” your plant to grow properly, you will allow light to cover a larger area of ​​the plant and increase its yield.

The growth of cannabis is dictated by a plant hormone called auxin. Auxin is highly concentrated in the upper part of the plant, where it forces the plant to focus most of its growth potential over the main stem. Training methods are used to reduce this concentration of upward growth.

LOW STRESS TRAINING (LST)

Low stress training generally requires more time and effort, but will greatly improve your cannabis crop. It is the most common training technique for indoor cultivation and can be used on plants in both vegetative and flowering phases. LST involves bending the plant, tying branches that are too long down. When the top of the plant is pulled downward into a free ‘L’ shape, the auxin in the plant is distributed more evenly. The ultimate goal is, that the plant stems produce a large number of flowers at the same height level. Then, when the bent plant enters the flowering phase, the buds will sprout rapidly up the side of the plant and produce all the same amount of quality buds.

HIGH STRESS TRAINING (HST)

The HST method is much more suitable for large outdoor gardens than LST and generally requires less time and materials.

TOPPING

Topping is a simple method that requires no tools except your nails. The aim is to remove the upper part of the plant, which will result in bifurcation of the main stem into two new branches. In addition, it sends a shock to the rest of the plant, which encourages growth in its lower part.

This process can easily be repeated multiple times as the plant grows, but it is not recommended to continue with topping after the end of the vegetative period. With this technique you will achieve a nicely rounded healthy plant with many large buds.

FIM (“FUCK I MISSED”)

The more complex version of FIM pinning involves removing a very specific amount of the top of the plant. The goal is to create four side branches instead of two. Due to the complexity, this method requires considerably more time. This will also expose your plant to a greater risk of infection, because you no longer only make a clean cut on the plant stem, as is the case with classical pinching.

SUPER CUTTING / CREATING THE LINE

Crippling the stem or branches is a more aggressive version of LST. Instead of bending the stem by tying it, you bend the branch until its threads break. The goal is not to break the branch quite or even to tear the stalk skin. You just want the branch to distort and bend.

This is best done by finding the right spot where you want to bend the stem and to roll between your fingers and squeeze the stem slightly. In this way, you can feel the hand in the hand gradually weaken, until it can eventually bend. This method will help the plant to get more light.

Super cropping


Super cropping is one of the methods that belongs to the so-called high stress training of plants. In practice, this is simply the case: you grab the main stem near the top of the plant and then press. Press just enough to prevent the stem from breaking, until we feel a crack between your fingers. Then gently bend the stem at the point of pressing. We will find other suitable places on the plant, where we perform this procedure. So, the method of super cropping was briefly introduced to you.

The main advantage of super cropping is that it enhances the integrity of the plant, especially the stem, and promotes vegetative growth, as the stalks carry heavier sticks. It can also be used to control the plant’s physical size and height without using chemicals that have the same effect and modify plant hormones. Using this technique, we deliberately damage the internal structure of the plant to heal itself, create scars and ´knee´ at the bend point. Finally, the juices get back to the top, but the next 24 – 48 hours the plant will redirect the energy it would spend to grow its top down into the leaves under the bend. This will ultimately result in the stalk being visibly thicker and thicker than the one that has not gone through super cropping.

Firstly, select a plant that has several floors of leaves at least 15 – 20 cm apart. It is important to use this technique in place of the plant with the most active growth to redirect this energy to areas below the bend point. Then place your thumb and index finger around the main stem between the top two floors and press lightly. The push must only be strong enough to feel a burst, like a squeeze of a blister. If a little fluid appears at the point of pressing, don’t panic, it’s just water. The most important thing is to avoid a complete break of the stem, so that you can chop the plant more. The plant should fully recover within a few days, starting to bend upward again behind the light. An elbow is formed at the bend. When the plant grows up again, you can repeat this technique between each new tray. Thanks to the visible knees, it won’t happen to you to bend the same place twice. If you do, you will cause irreversible damage to the plant. As with the rest of the plant, even in super cropping, my password is “If there is a place to be pressed, I will press it”.

Leave a Reply